English-born Roxy Bourdillon first came to Sydney with her girlfriend and knew she’d found a place she could call home when she discovered her style soulmate, Alannah Hill. She is obsessed with clothes – designer, high street, vintage, fancy dress. She cries every time a woman has a makeover on TV because she finds the transformative power of fashion deeply moving.

 

 

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The Lesbian Who Changed The Way Straight Women Dress

 

In response to the age-old myth that lesbians have no style I present Ms Patricia Field. In 1966 she opened her first signature boutique in New York’s Greenwich Village. Twenty years later she began designing costumes for film and television and her work on Sex and the City earned her critical acclaim and an international following. Now the movie sequel is in production and the gossip rags and fashion blogs are once again obsessed with dissecting every carefully choreographed ensemble. What many of her fans don’t know is that Patricia Field, to quote Carrie Bradshaw, is “gay as pink suede”.

How fabulous is that? One of the most influential figures in the fashion industry over the past decade is an out and proud lesbian. But in this celebrity-obsessed culture, why is Pat’s sexuality not more widely known? She has never hidden it. The mainstream media just chooses to focus only on the pretty dresses and extravagant shoes. Is it uncomfortable for them to promote the fact that this high priestess of fashion is a gay woman?

I couldn’t help but wonder if it was in fact a good thing that people weren’t hung up on her sexuality, that it was a sign we had moved past it being an issue. But in a world where homophobia and negative stereotypes drastically outweigh the visibility of positive, authentic lesbians in the media, I don’t just want her sexuality not to be an issue, I want it to be recognized and celebrated.

Although Sex and the City revolves around heterosexual storylines many of its creative team are gay, including writer/director Michael Patrick King and leading actress Cynthia Nixon. In Season 4, Samantha even had a lesbian relationship with Maria, the Brazilian artist.

Talking to The Age newspaper about being an out lesbian in the fashion industry Pat said, “I don’t feel a rub about my sexuality. I don’t consider myself a woman or a man professionally. Half the creative industry is gay, so if anything, I would almost say it’s a plus. I mean, I’m not a politician. I don’t work for the government. At the end of the day, I’m a hairdresser.” Hairdresser/creative visionary.

While Pat may not consider her sexuality relevant to her work, it is surely relevant for people, gay and straight, to realize that a lesbian has this much influence on fashion and entertainment. It is also important to challenge and disprove stereotypes that lesbians are badly dressed or that we all look the same.

Pat’s personal style is fiercely feminine, again defying the misconception of lesbians always dressing in mannish clothes. Citing Cleopatra as her fashion icon, her trademark is her cartoonish red hair worn with a mash-up of brightly coloured, skin-flashing outfits.

With Sex and the City, Pat started a fashion revolution. She pioneered the enduring trend for mixing designer with thrift store and inspired women to over-accessorize to their hearts content. She made Manolo Blahnik a household name and Sarah Jessica Parker a style icon.

Many of the looks she created included elements of classic lesbian fashion. One of the very few articles that discuss Pat’s sexuality, 2004 New York Times piece, ‘The Secret Power of Lesbian Style’, describes the “dyke sensibility” she brought to the show, highlighting “the do-rags, newsboy caps and outlandishly femme jewel-box ballerina outfits”. Also deserving a mention are the boy boxer briefs Carrie wore around the house and under her vintage dresses.

Patricia Field is my number 1 lesbian style icon of all time. She is stylish, creative, wildly successful and a true original. She is also the living flame-haired proof that not only can lesbians dress, we can change the way the rest of the world dresses too.

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Don't get me wrong, I love boobs. Just not my own.

 

Why is it that however much the sight of my girlfriend’s boobs turns me on, catching a glimpse of mine instantly makes me feel self-conscious and insecure? My G(inormous)-cup boobs have long been the bane of my existence. They give me chronic back pain (sexy, huh?) and act as man-magnets meaning sexual harassment in the street has been a regular occurrence since puberty. But I could cope with the cramps, I could handle the catcalls from complete strangers. It's what they stop me wearing that hurts the most. In the changing room my breasts are two unruly obstacles blocking my path to fashion glory. Outfits that look stylishly adorable on my flat-chested friend make me look like I'm applying for a job at Hooters. The number of garments I have had to cast aside due to the dreaded Comedy Cleavage is enough to make me weep into my undie drawer of thick-strapped boulder-holder bras. And big breasticles aren't just a hardship for femmes. Butch or tomboyish girls may find their lovely lady lumps aren’t accommodated by the styles of clothing they covet. Shopping in the menswear department can be frustrating when any item that fits around your chest swamps you everywhere else. And when you head over to the women’s section things don’t get much better with shirts that won’t button up past your boobs. You can still look hot in tailored clothes. You just have to be a bit more careful about what you choose. Go for blazers or waistcoats worn fitted and open over plain V-neck T-shirts. My own style saviour is the wraparound dress, the one item that actually looks better on girls with curves. Whenever I spot one my eyes light up like Homer in a doughnut shop. I know it’s going to flatter my figure and make me feel sexy and confident. A Brief Word On Brassieres

 

Underwear shopping is a nightmare when your boobs are bigger than your head and the only bras that fit are labeled Maternity. Nobody wants lumpy, bumpy boobs so I can’t stress enough the need for a correctly fitting bra. It’s a good idea to get professionally measured and to bear in mind that as with clothes you might be different sizes in different shops. The thing with big boobs is if you try and constrict them they end up looking like misshapen mounds of unwanted flesh. I find minimizer bras squash mine when I want them to be lovingly cradled. Instead I go for a well-fitting, full-cup T-shirt bra. Another essential if you want to wear low-cut tops or dresses is a non-padded, plunge front bra that will hold your boobs in place without pushing them together too much.

 

It is an ongoing struggle to find stylish bras in bigger sizes. There are a few in David Jones and Myer but if you’re after a greater selection check out www.bellaforma.com.au (stocks up to an L cup and the new D-G Elle Macpherson range), www.storminadcup.com.au (goes up to an L cup and does swimwear too), www.brastogo.com.au (the aptly named Big Girls Don't Cry Anymore does bras in sizes B to L), www.bravissimo.com (bras up to a JJ cup as well as a range of clothing specially designed for busty ladies - great for workwear basics), Mimi Holliday at www.damaris.co.uk (top of my wish list - the underwear is utterly gorgeous but not for the bargain-hunter) and www.rigbyandpeller.com (top quality A-J cup bras direct from London, this is where the queen gets hers). While small boobs are a fashion blessing, there can be the odd downside to being modestly endowed. One of my dykier friends frequently gets mistaken for a boy and hit on by gay men. Perhaps if her boobs were a cup-size or two bigger she wouldn’t have to put up with this kind of shit.

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The Coming Out Ritual

Why is it that so many lesbians step out of the closet and into the nearest hair salon, then across the road for a tattoo and a tank top or twelve to correspond with their newly unleashed sexual identity?

 

 

 

Image overhaul is often an important stage in the coming out process. Dressing the part can ease the whole ordeal and minimise the need for explanations. If your hair announces your sexuality, you don’t have to.

But lesbian hair is the topic of much controversy.  It has its devotees, its converts and its critics. Some deny it even exists. There may be no such thing as homosexual hair, but I do know a lot of homos with the same haircut.

It is said that when a woman cuts her hair she is about to make a great change in her life. When pictures surfaced of Britney’s shaved head the world’s media pounced on this “proof” of her mental breakdown. When Queen Elizabeth I had her auburn mane sheared off she shed her sexual past along with her locks and declared she had been reborn a virgin and was married to England. When Shane McCutcheon gave Jennifer Schechter a pixie crop, girls started cruising her in the street.

People take notice when a woman cuts her hair.

The act of a lesbian cutting her hair is simultaneously revolutionary and conformist. While she may be defiantly rejecting the traditional notion of female beauty she is embracing a new, albeit more comfortable, aesthetic and identifying herself to other gay women, potentially improving her chances of romantic success.

Or is it nothing to do with other people and more about finally feeling free to accept and express yourself as you are, not how others think you should be? Perhaps your haircut and your sexuality are not so directly linked. It seems natural that at a time when you are exploring and discovering yourself both your style and your self-expression will evolve.

It should be noted that sadly not all women with short hair are gay. Equally lots of girls with flowing locks, myself including, are. I’m fed up with people persistently assuming I’m straight or at best bi. I come out as often as possible and shout my head off at rallies for gay rights yet I still get mistaken for a fag hag. If I got a faux-hawk and a singlet would it warn off misguided men? I’ve tried giving them evils but they seem to take any form of attention, even if it’s a withering glare and a kick in the shin, as a come on.

During my own transition from closeted schoolgirl to debutante dyke my haircut didn’t change, the main reason being that my already round face would look positively spherical if it didn’t have a tousled mane to camouflage it. I admit to dallying with the idea after spending time in gay bars. I wanted to fit in and not be mistaken for my girlfriend’s straight mate. However I have decided to express myself through expensive dresses and earrings instead. I reason that hair does not have a sexuality. I do.

 

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BETH DITTO – DESIGNER DIVA

 

Beth Ditto is a self-proclaimed “fatshionista”. She wears what the hell she wants and now you can wear it too. Her first clothing range is about to be launched by plus size retailer, Evans, to the delight of full figured femmes worldwide.

Fashion Rules Rewritten - the lessons we can learn from this style icon.

1. EMBRACE YOUR BODY

Ditto doesn’t dress how big girls are supposed to. She is not limited by a desire to appear thinner. When people criticise her fashion choices for being “unflattering” they are missing the point. If she was concerned with people knowing what her body looks like would she pose nude on multiple magazine covers? Would she whip her top off mid-performance, even when playing the Fendi fashion party? What makes her iconic is that she doesn’t give a damn. She embraces her body in all its fleshy naked glory and shows it off to maximum effect.

2. CREATE AND CUSTOMISE

Ditto’s punk mentality applies to her style as well as her music. If you can’t find clothes that fit your body or personality, make your own. Ditto’s a dab hand at turning belts into necklaces and skirts into ponchos.

3. EXPERIMENT WITH COLOUR

Don’t feel pressured to shroud yourself in dark tunics. While wearing one colour head-to-toe can have a streamlining effect, choosing flattering shades of your favourite colours will light up your face in a way that black can’t. Ditto favours diva purples and blues, which suit her porcelain skin. When she does the monochrome look she gives it a rock chick edge with a slash of red lipstick and thick wings of black eyeliner.

4. FOR FAILSAFE GLAMOUR, GO VINTAGE

A voluptuous woman in a fabulous retro dress can be spectacular. Ditto is drop dead gorgeous in her beaded flapper frock which skims her figure and gives her a movie star glow. She also makes a beautiful prom queen in this red 1950s number. With both of these outfits she has chosen flattering vintage shapes that work with her curves to make her look even more feminine.

Many online vintage stores have plus-size sections. If you want to try this look check out www.ballyhoovintage.com for the real deal and www.stopstaringclothing.com for adorable reproduction vintage dresses up to a size XXXL. Both companies are based in America but will ship internationally.

5. EXPRESS YOURSELF

The most important lesson to learn from Ditto’s dress sense is that clothes can be used as a creative expression of who you are. She chooses outfits that flaunt her figure and personality rather than camouflaging either. Dress for yourself. Wear what you love and what makes you happy.

THE RANGE REVIEWED

The fat girl fashion blogs are ablaze with excitement. Not only has the world’s first Full Figured Fashion Week just been held in New York, but Beth Ditto, style icon to the plus size and the model size, is on the verge of launching her premier designer collection. Finally. A range of clothing for those over a size 14 that doesn’t make them look over 40. A fashion line that has been designed for young, hip, hot women who don’t just want to blend into the background anymore. Ditto’s effort does not disappoint.

The 22-piece capsule collection is sexy, stylish and provocative in a dark disco palette of purples, blues, monochromes and sequins. Instant must-haves include the cropped leather biker jacket, the cheeky black cocktail dress and the rock chick studded shoulder bag. Also essential are the coloured leggings, which feature a supportive waistband to suit fuller figures.

My absolute favourite outfit, which I’m considering going on a diet of doughnuts to fit into, is the 80s print prom dress with the jewel-encrusted belt. I’d wear it with the Lulu-Guinness-inspired clutch for a flirty, femme party look.

I wouldn’t rush to purchase every item. The Dynasty-style embellished jumper dress requires extreme confidence and a good sense of humour. And I’m mildly disturbed by the kitten’s face peering out at me from one particular oversized T-shirt. But apparently best mate Kate Moss has already snapped one up so it looks set to be a hit with voluptuous Vogue readers.

Beth Ditto, I salute you. Covetable clothes and accessories to sex up young fatshionistas’ wardrobes. I sincerely hope this collection is the start of bigger things to come.

Clothes available in sizes 14-32, footwear in wide-fitting sizes 4-10,Available online, international delivery available.

For a full review of Beth Ditto's new album, please click here.

 

 

 

 

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Checked shirt + skinny jeans + short hair = dyke chic. Until now.

The fashion magazines keep banging on about “boyfriend chic” urging their readers to don suit jackets with their skinny jeans and swap their stilettos for a pair of sensible brogues. Celebrity fans include Agyness Deyn, who teams her flannel with bovver boots, Katie Holmes, whose daytime dress-code is slouchy-sexy, and LC of The Hills, who has a weakness for plaid shirts and fedoras. Obviously Sam Ronson dresses like this every day.

I’m down with the look but what’s all this “boyfriend” bollocks? We gay girls and our GIRLFRIENDS have been sexing up menswear for years. We may not have invented stylish androgyny but we worked that look in such numbers that it became synonymous with lesbian fashion, a fact which the press repeatedly ignores.

I’m not suggesting for a moment that all lesbians dress alike. I, for one, own forty-eight dresses and not a single tank top. But you can’t deny there’s a prevalent look, especially on the scene. Just minutes into my first night out in a gay bar I had an alarming realisation. I was the only woman not wearing a blazer.

With every other straight girl in the street now wearing a version of what was once our statement Sapphic style, our gaydar guns may need retuning. So can you tell if a girl is gay by what she is wearing?

The key to deciphering a woman’s sexuality may not be what she wears but the way she wears it. Typically, but not always, the straight-girl interpretations are softer and safer, balancing any masculine tailoring with coquettishly feminine touches. The lezzas often look more striking with harder lines and spikier hairstyles.

Context is crucial. Clearly the same outfit holds different connotations when worn at a pride parade than it does on, say… a date with a man. Also notable is the way it is all put together. Hairstyle, make-up, tats, piercings and the all-important length of fingernails provide further clues to the interpreter. Despite my addiction to all things girly, I would never leave the house with overgrown talons.

And what about the full-on femmes wearing lippy and leopard-print - can you tell us apart from similarly dressed straight girls? The difference is the target audience. Most of us dress to express ourselves and wear what we feel comfortable in or attracted to. It is said that “women dress for other women” but while straight girls are hoping to impress in the style stakes, queer girls also want to turn other women on. We are framed by a female rather than a male gaze of desire. If a so-called “lipstick lesbian” is mistakenly locked by the wrong gaze she may be prone to snarling and flicking the Vs in a most unladylike fashion.

Style stereotypes can help to determine a woman’s sexuality. But with designer androgyny proliferating on the high street and increased sightings of lesbians in skirts, the only surefire way to get an accurate gaydar reading is to concentrate above the neckline and zoom in on the way she looks at you.